Her Sweet Hand Samples

Versace on the the march

The two headline fashion images of this week are both of glamorous blondes in skintight, gold-studded, stretch black Versace leather. In the new video for Edge of Glory , Lady Gaga is wearing a slashed, medusa-spiked corset from Gianni Versace's last collection; Donatella took a catwalk bow after this week's Versace menswear show in Milan in a skintight, knee-length, studded-and-zipped dress – which, she revealed the following morning, was an early sample from Versace for H&M, which will bring the Versace look to the high street, when it hits stores in November this year.

Versace is having a moment. The label has not been hotter since the salad days of supermodels in sweet-shop brights on the catwalk and Liz Hurley in safety pins on the red carpet. The significance of the Lady Gaga connection is not to be underestimated: after all, last September when the New York Times ran an article about the power struggles, feuds and mind games that determine the seating arrangements at catwalk shows , one editor, Dan Peres of Details, nailed the key issue: "I want to see who gets the seat next to Lady Gaga." Right now, that seat is occupied by Donatella Versace, and the momentum that Gaga has in pop culture makes that a powerful place to be.

The heart of the Versace brand will always be the prowling, tigerish sex appeal that the label stood for in the 80s. Medusa heads, black leather, a very Italian embrace of sunshine colours, a stiletto with everything and always, always make the boobs look good: that's what Versace is, and will always be. By forging a connection with Gaga, Donatella has found a way to make that heart beat again. According to fashion insiders, Donatella wrote Gaga a letter, telling her that she believed her brother Gianni would have wanted to dress her and offering to open the archives, and Gaga responded enthusiastically, wearing vintage Versace at high-profile appearances. She wore a Versace LBD on the cover of the US edition of Harpers Bazaar last month, and has shown a particular fondness for the Miami-bright scarf prints, on leggings and silk blouses. Donatella, in return, has lavished the singer with praise – and one-off Versace archive pieces that guarantee airtime in the fashion blogosphere.

Is it just me, or does Gaga bears a strong physical resemblance to a young Donatella, as seen in family photos when she was still only known as Gianni's younger sister? Plenty of fodder for amateur psychologists there. But still, I suspect Donatella's motivation is more about the brand than about her own ego. It is as if she is finally ready to take the Versace brand to the masses. She has in the past been hostile to the concept of high-street collaborations – just three years ago, she was quoted as saying: "I work very hard to put the Versace line in the luxury section. I think to put the Versace line in H&M would confuse the brand.

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